Wales by Narrow Boat

Once we made it to the Chirk Marina there was a flurry of activity getting everyone and everything onboard our canal boat and making preparations for the big departure. We were in a boat with two other families, and there were two other boats with similar populations. We were a flotilla!  

View from our boat of the Chirk Marina

Less than an hour after departure, we met with our first obstacle - a small traffic bridge that had to be raise to let our boats pass underneath. The boats pulled over, one of the guys hopped out to raise the bridge and all the guys, including Dad, jumped out to help hold the lines so our boats stayed put. The next thing I know, I hear S-P-L-A-S-H!!! and look over the top of the boat to see my Dad's head pop up from underwater. It was quite an ordeal to get him up and out of the canal (straight, 4-foot tall cement sides and a waterlogged, fully clothed person doesn't make it that easy), but we got him out. I pushed my dripping wet father into the shower and made him rinse off all of his clothes and take a Silkwood shower. Sadly, his wallet and (even more sadly) iPhone were also drenched. We eventually got his phone (sorta) fixed and wallet dried out. 

We're on a boat!

It took the rest of the trip to get my Dad's clothes and shoes dry, so he was stuck with a dress shirt, khakis, and Bill's wellies for the next three days. I prayed for the next week that he wouldn't get dysentery or an amoeba or the flesh eating virus, etc. Thankfully he's still as fit as a fiddle! 

(Apparently, when Dad threw the rope back to the boat, he overstretched and lost his balance and ended up in the water.)  

Going over the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct

The photos above were taken just 30 minutes or less after Dad's dunking; thank God he has a good humor about it all as well! :-) 

View from the back and side of the boat, going over the aqueduct

The big ticket item on the particular canal we took was the Pontcysyllte (pronounced pon-sea-cliff-tea) aqueduct, showcased in these photos. The views going over the aqueduct were stunning! 

Over the aqueduct, pilot's view

Going over the aqueduct, view from front of boat

That's a long way down!!

Soccer pitch below the aqueduct

My phone was also acting up on this trip, so I had to 'borrow' a lot of photos from the others on the trip. I can't remember who took which photo, but they know who took them. 

Another aqueduct in the distance!

The photo below was a typical scene on the canal. The funny thing about canal boats is that they go maximum 4 MPG, so we were often passed by walkers along the tow road. The canals were dug back before trains were able to move goods around England. A barge, floating in the canal, would have been loaded with goods and provisions. That barge would have been tethered to horses, who would pull the barge via the tow road from town to village to city to town, etc.

Me and Dad, chillin' on the boat

We stopped at the end of the canal and spent the day exploring the Welsh village of Llagonllen (pronounced Lang-goth-lynn). It was quite picturesque, but also heaving with people on a high-tourism day. We were able to get lunch in a cafe, buy a few provisions, and head back to the docks for a barbecue that night. As it's the UK, it rained all throughout our BBQ, so we sat in a huddled circle, umbrellas taking the brunt of the rain. It worked, but it was a fairly miserable BBQ. 

The small village of Llagonllen

Downtown Llangollen

Back on the boats the next morning! Here's a photo of one of our boat captains, Captain Bill! 

Bill at the helm

So many family back gardens butted up against the canal. Some of them were decorated whimsically, like the hobbit-inspired display below. 

Can you spot the hobbit door?

It is so calm and fun on the canals. The canal we traversed last year was a lot less travelled, and had more places to stop along the way, though. 

Going under a bridge

The photo below is what it's all about! Chillin', having fun, and perhaps a beer or two while doing it. 

Bill and Pete, captains extraordinaire

What English canal should we go on next Summer? 

Hello, Dad! - Updated

The next several posts have a special guest star...

Introducing my grizzly-bear of a father, Papa Roger! He flew out in August and spent two weeks with us in England. This post documents the beginning of our adventure. 

Hello, Papa Roger!

After a day and a half of touring around the little corner of England where we live, we drove down to Chester. Chester is right on the Welsh boarder and has some terrific medieval ruins, as well as a small Roman amphitheater.  Alas, the traffic was much worse than anticipated and by the time we arrived it was well and truly past lunchtime. We quickly checked into our hotel rooms and found a lovely little pub for some grub. Afterwards, we walked around the walled city of Chester (just like York, Chester city centre is enclosed in walls built in the middle ages). Sadly, it was much later than we had planned and all of the sites had already admitted their last visitors for the day. So back to the hotel we went, it was only 6:00 and our tummies were still full. We didn't want to just sit in a pub for hours drinking and talking - we had already sat in a car all day! So, I got out my phone with its trusty Trip Advisor app and looked up 'Things to do in Chester.'

What!?! There's an indoor crazy golf course less than 10 minute drive away? Yes, please! :-)

Dad shooting for a hole in one

Bill won both 18-hole rounds!

Adventure golf was a load of fun and a good way to walk around, goof off, and spend an enjoyable several hours together. Afterwards we walked over to an ice cream shop inside an Imax theater and had double-scoops for a late-night dinner. Because that's how we roll! 

Chirk Castle

The next morning we got up and made our way into Wales. Our first stop was to Chirk Castle, a 13th century castle with (yet again) a long and contentious history. Sadly, my phone (and therefore, my camera) started really acting grumpy and I only got a few good photos. The oldest portion of the castle is in remarkable shape, dating all the way back to it's beginnings in 1295. The castle has seen hard times, but has remained intact with various additions, upgrades, and enforced walls added throughout its long life. 

A Welsh solder (AKA Dad)

We were able to explore the oldest part of the tower, soldiers quarters and lookouts as well as a two-level basement dungeon. More fortunate prisoners lived on the upper level with some natural light, ventilation, and a fireplace. Others were locked in the lower level, with no light, fresh air, or heat.  

Window looking out on another guard tower

We toured a chapel and other medieval rooms before making our way to the North Range, the youngest side of the castle, much of which built during the Victorian age. We weren't allowed to take photos in that part of the castle, but my phone was on its last leg anyway. 

After a pit stop in the tea room, we used my phone's sat nav (GPS) to make our way to the Chirk Marina. Alas, we made a wrong turn somewhere along the way and then my phone lost its signal. At our lowest (highest?) point, we were lost, couldn't get a signal, and had made our way somehow onto an overgrown dirt path that was definitely not a public road. My poor Subaru bumped its way down a twisting tractor's path, six foot tall weeds on either side whipped my car with the slightest breeze. But we finally, FINALLY! made it to the Chirk Marina and met up with a lot of friends to start our 3-night canal boat adventure.

More on that in the next post! 

Richmond Trifecta - Updated

The weekend after the Day of Milk and Honey (see previous post), we drove up to Richmond,  a city with lots of great British things to see. First up was Richmond Castle, the most complete 11th Century (yes, its origin dates back to 1071!) surviving structure in Europe of its kind. 

Richmond main castle tower

The land was granted by William the Conqueror to Alan Rufus in 1071, who named it Richmond, which is Norman-French for 'strong hill.' Good ol' Alan quickly built a small castle, which is referred to in the Doomsday Book in 1086. Everybody know what the Doomsday Book is? Just in case you don't, here goes my quick explanation: William the Conqueror conquered England in 1066, and once the dust settled, he commissioned men to go to all corners of his country to find out, 'How many hundreds of hides were in the shire, what land the king himself had, and what stock upon the land; or, what dues he ought to have by the year from the shire.' Basically, he wanted to know how much in taxes he could get out of everyone.

Richmond castle exterior walls

Okay, back to Richmond castle factoids! The castle grew, was upgraded, demolished, upgraded some more. All while the city of Richmond sprouted all around the castle grounds. 

View of downtown Richmond

Richmond city centre

The city centre of Richmond is still quite compact, and from high up atop the tower you can see the grazing fields and pastures not far outside city centre. 

More views of Richmond

It was very windy up at the tower top. Like most places in Europe, fairly dangerous. There were signs telling you not to sit on the waist-high walls, but there was nothing from stopping someone from doing so… and then falling four stories straight down. 

Brian taking a photo from the tower top

From the main castle tower we walked across the keep to see some of the guard towers and living quarters. I had to stop and take a photo of this naughty manhole cover for my friend, who collects photos of manhole covers. I texted her this photo asking her if she had a photo of a 'Cock' cover. No, no she did not :-)

Naughty manhole cover

Richmond castle's tower as seen from across the keep / old marketplace

It's hard to get a feel for a place such as Richmond Castle with such close images. I found an arial photo from the internet that gives a better idea of how the city encloses the castle on two sides, with a forest and river on the other two. The walled-in area would have not only been a safe and strategic place for city dwellers to find sanctuary during times of war, but it was also the location of the marketplace. Therefore, the castle and its keep were used during times of war and peace. 

Arial image of Richmond Castle (c) 2006, Webb Aviation

In one of the towers the curators had a small display of everyday medieval items. Can you imagine having to carry around a handful of door keys back in the day? Talk about heavy!  

Medieval iron door key

Many of the building along the perimeter wall of the keep were soldier's stations, chapels, fireplaces, eating halls, that sort of thing. By the Victorian era, a lot of Richmond castle was already in this ruinous state. However, the walled keep was mostly still intact, and barracks and offices were built (since torn down) to be used as the headquarters for the North York Militia.   

Richmond Castle - Robin Hood Tower

Still later, one of the buildings was repaired enough to be used as a cell block and held the 'Richmond 16,' conscientious objectors of the first World War. After a while, the 16 were tried and sentenced to death by firing squad. This sentence was quickly commuted to ten years hard labor, but by 1919 they were all released. 

Watch that first step!

After the castle we walked over to the only un-touched Victorian theatre (aside from added electricity and loos) in all of England. The theatre is quite small, with two tiers of balconies and a about six rows of small bench seats, but it was absolutely stunning. 

Victorian Theatre

Boxes at theatre

The stage is also tiny, which our tour leader said can prove to be a challenge when dance troupe, etc. come for a concert/gig/recital. On the day we arrived, the theatre had been let out for a wedding that had taken place earlier in the day. What a delightful location to tie the knot!

Stage at Victorian theatre

Behind the scenes, the theatre displays its original painted silk backdrop. It being close to 200 years old, it shows some wear, but looks surprisingly good!  

Victorian stage backdrop

Backstage also showcased some real tallow candles that made everything smell like sheep. Can you imagine what the theatre smelled like when it was lit entirely by tallow candlelight? We get to go back in a few weeks as we have tickets to a Panto* - I can't wait to see a live play here!! 

Real tallow candles

After the Victorian theatre we headed out for some ice cream and a walk to Easby Abbey. Easby, yet another Catholic abbey destroyed during Henry VIII's dissolution from Rome, was built in 1152-3. There is documentation that this location housed a Minster (a church that would have trained clergy to go out and convert the Anglo-Saxon peasants), but that must have been demolished to make way for the modern 12th century Abbey.

Easby Abbey

As you can see from the photo below, this abbey has seen better days. I read up a bit on this abbey after our visit, and it seems this one may have been a bit shady. For example, its clergy was accused of scampering off with possessions that belonged to the abbot of St. Mary's in York. And yet another time in 1284 when there was a quarrel with the townspeople who accused them of illegally using a mill 2.5 miles downriver. In the end, the servants of the abbey striped the mill or Iron in lieu of collecting rent. There are other instances, but it basically sounds like some of the abbots at Easby were people I would not have wanted to know. 

There may be a crack...

That said, the abbey, although in ruin, is still beautiful. The rectory, cloisters, chapter house, etc. must have been absolutely stunning before they were demolished.  

Cloisters

Easby Abbey

No sir-ee, Bob! I wasn't about to walk beside that wall being held aloft by two sturdy wood beams. You can see the brick wall still teetering to the right, and I certainly did not one to be the one to meet the bricks when it finally comes tumbling down! 

Braced, but still a bit wonky

Although there was no ubiquitous exit-through-the-gift-shop, we did exit-through-the-graveyard. And with that, our long day of exploring Richmond came to an end!

Cemetery at Easby

* Pantomime (informally panto) is a type of musical comedy stage production, designed for family entertainment. It was developed in England and is still performed throughout the United Kingdom, generally during the Christmas and New Year season and, to a lesser extent, in other English-speaking countries.

The Day of Milk and Honey

Some summer days in England are so nice, you just have to get out and enjoy them. Our friends, Brian and Regine, called us up one morning this summer and asked us if we wanted to have a little walkabout in a small woods an hour or so drive away. Bill and I didn't have any plans, so we hopped in the car and met them at their place. 

Verdant Hackfell Wood

And off we drove to Hackfell Woods! A smallish National Trust park that had fairly well maintained pathways and beautiful scenery. We found several small follies, such as the hexagonal-shaped one in the photo below. Before I moved to England, I had never heard of a folly. For those of you in the same boat, a folly is something a rich person (typically) would build amongst their paths and walkways. They are usually built to depict a ruin, something to make the area seem older and more mysterious or interesting that it actually is. Therefore, the small stone hexagonal building below probably never had a roof or windows. It was built and left to let nature take its course. 100+ years later and it looks like a peculiar remainder of a bygone time. Which, I guess in truth, it is. 

A folly

We walked down the trail all the way to the river Nidd (or Wharf? I'm not sure which river it was, really) and then had to hike back up again. My friends are awesome and waited for me every time I had to stop and catch my breath. 

Rushing river through the trees

After our hike we found ourselves near a well-rated gastro-pub and tucked in to some delicious dinner. The small village pub had a nearby home that had a wee honesty-box out front with honey from their bees for purchase. The hutch was called 'Honey Money' and had many jars of high quality honey and a money box. You picked your honey and paid the price on the tag into the money box. We only had a £10, but the money box was unlocked, so we were able to make change for our purchase. God, I love small villages! 

On our way home we stopped at a small dairy that sells fresh, raw dairy milk from their vending machine dispenser. You grab a fresh, empty jug, put in £2 and hold your jug under the nozzle and voila! Fresh, raw milk. 

A day of milk and honey!

It was such a lovely day, Bill declared it the Day of Milk and Honey! 

Really, Really Old Stuff

We had planned on returning home the Monday after the Hebridean Celtic Festival, however someone* waited too long to purchase ferry tickets and all of the Monday ferries were sold out. So, we had to stay on the island even one day longer than we had originally planned. It turned out all right, though. Because everything was closed on Sunday (see last post) we still had the three National Trust sites to visit. First up was the Callanish (or Calanais in Scots Gaelic) standing stones.   

Callanish standing stones

This stone circle was erected sometime around 2900 - 2600 BC in an area of the island that was near the sea (great for catching fish/shellfish) and surrounded by what was then terrific grazing fields and fertile ground for growing barley. Similar to Stonehenge in southern England and many other standing stones, Callanish was probably a center for gatherings as well as religious site of some sort. 

Callanish

The site comprises of a center ring (not quite a true circle) with long stone lines running east-west through the center of the huge central stone. The western half of the ring is a true semi-circle, but the eastern half is somewhat flattened. Inside the stone ring is a small chambered tomb. There is evidence of other structures to the east, but nothing of the structures themselves have ever been located. 

A single stone at Callanish

The center stone at Callanish

The stones were first studied in the 17th century, but not until the late 19th century were the stones scientifically studied. Up until them many believed the 12 stones of the ring symbolized the signs of the zodiac. It wasn't until the 1970s that in and around the stone ring received a proper archeological excavation and the scientists realized the stones were much taller than originally thought. The cairne (burial chamber) in the center of the stone circle was found to have at one time been a tall structure with a roof and probably used for 15 to 20 generations. 

Callenish

The evidence showed that at some point in the second millennium the carne was destroyed with a hoe-like tool and burned. The best guess is that this was another tribe ensuring that no inconvenient ancestors would trouble the new caretakers of the stone circle. 

Artsy view of Callanish

Enough about all that history stuff! Here's a picture of me hugging the center stone, the tallest of the Callenish standing stones. It was over 20 feet tall! 

Center stone of Callanish

Moving from the really, really old stuff of the bronze age and into the really old stuff of the iron age, we visited a broch. The broch dates back to around 600 BC and is a remarkably well preserved three-story stone roundhouse. In it's prime this roundhouse would have been a fully enclosed, conical home with a thatched roof. 

Carloway Broch

Even half demolished, it was amazing how much it sheltered you from the wind the moment you stepped inside. This particular broch, Dun Charlabhaigh (Dun Carloway Broch) is especially interesting as it seemed to have several separated rooms within the main chamber. There is also lots of evidence that this particular broch was used as a home well past its prime. 

Ground, first, and second floor at Carloway Broch

A Lewis legend says that in the 1600s members of the Clan Morrisons of Ness sheltered within the broch after being caught red-handed on the lands of nearby Clan MacAulay during a cattle raid. The Morrisons barricaded themselves inside and only surrendered after Donald Cam MacAulay climbed the outer wall of the tower and threw burning heather in through the rood and smoked them out.  If this story is true, the walls were still fairly in tact in the 1600s. 

After climbing out of the ground floor, Carloway Broch

The last visit of the day was to a classic Hebridean Blackhouse, the typical longhouse built for farming families in the mid 1800s. This is old stuff, but only about 50 years older than the 3-story terraced Victorian house in which we are currently living.

Hebridean Blackhouse

The longhouses were built of stone with thatched roofs. The family lived on one side of the long house and, particularly in winter, the animals (cows and chickens) lived on the other side. 

Entrance to blackhouse

The family slept all together in 'bed boxes' and the home was heated by peat fire. For those of you who don't know, the marshy lands of much of Scotland is made up of peat, a dense, nutrient-rich brick-like mud that burns efficiently and is a readily available, renewable resource. 

A pile of peat!

It was very dark inside the blackhouse, but the photo below is of the communal room where the family would have cooked, eaten, entertained, and spent most of their time whilst indoors. The Scottish country line-style dancing was said to have evolved in these black houses. Since there were no ballrooms (or large room of any kind), they created dances that used the length and not the width of the room to its advantage.

Interior hall at blackhouse

The last photo in this post is of the peat fire that was actually lit and heating the house during our visit. Everywhere we went during our week on Lewis we kept seeing farmers cutting peat out of their fields. Bill loves peaty Scottish whiskeys and got this great idea to buy a brick or two of Lewis peat and use it to smoke some meat back in England. Alas, we couldn't find peat anywhere in the shops. We finally asked at a few places and learned that it's illegal to sell it; even though it's a renewable resource, there is a finite amount of it to go around. 

A few people suggested we pull over and ask the next person we see cutting peat out of their field if we could have a brick or two. This day was our last chance, and of course, we didn't see anyone on our drive to ask. While we were at the blackhouse Bill noticed a big pile of peat bricks set up to be used in the fire. Bill asked the attendants at the visitor's center if there was a farmer nearby where he could ask for a brick of peat, but the employee did us one better - he grabbed a bag and put a few bricks in from their pile. Huzzah! 

Coal fire inside blockhouse

And the next day we caught the 6:00AM two-hour ferry back to Ullapool and embarked on an additional eight hour drive all the way back home. Unfortunately the long trek home pretty much undid all of the chill that we obtained during our holiday. Oh, well! At least we can say we've been to the Butt of Lewis - I mean, how many people can say that?! :-) 

* I plead the 5th so as not to incriminate myself!